All posts filed under: Seafood

fish tacos

rockfish tacos with cortido, cukes and cotija cheese

Taco Tuesday! A few weeks ago at the farmers market, we were on the hunt for fresh fish. There’s always frozen and smoked salmon available, as well as locally farmed oysters. But I was having a hankering for fish tacos. We spotted a neon poster board sign written with thick black permanent marker. Fresh rockfish $9/pound. The farmer led us to an open Igloo cooler packed with ice and started rummaging around, showing us different packages of fresh fish. This fish. He paused, balancing the clear zip-lock plastic bag in his hand, thinking and recalling. Hmm. Yep. This fish was caught three days ago. It’s one of the things I love most about the farmers markets. Unless you plan to grow and harvest vegetables yourself, or catch and filet your own fish from the water, this is the freshest you’ll find. (I’ve been given steep discounts because the arugula was four days old. I would have happily paid full price for something that, in my mind, was still fresher than I would find anywhere else.) At …

salmon patties with aioli

salmon potato patties with horseradish and chive aioli

There’s a longstanding argument in my family: whether salmon patties should or should not (and, also, do or do not) include onions. (Spoilers: Mine do. Sorry Dad.) The argument dates back, I think, to when my grandparents were first dating. My grandfather was a southern boy and to him salmon patties required just two ingredients: salmon and saltine crackers. The first time my great-grandmother invited him to dinner, she crafted an elaborate but comforting meal including macaroni and cheese and salmon patties. Salmon patties with onions. My mother and father have been arguing, playfully, for years. My father is adamant that there are no onions in salmon patties. My mother, who makes them, contends with absolutely certainty that she does, in fact, put onion in the patties. When I first started cooking, I made an elaborate version of salmon patties with lime zest, dill and scallions. After going gluten-free, I couldn’t make the traditional patty held together with saltine crackers and dusted in all purpose flour. I discovered that mashed potatoes made an excellent binder …

squid ink pizza

squid ink pizza with homemade ricotta, smoked salmon and a lemony brussels sprouts salad

Salty. Like the sea. Craig was standing behind me, watching as I prepared potatoes for dinner. Red skins scrubbed, diced and in a pot covered with cold water. Set on the stove, I sprinkled in a generous pinch of salt. “You use more salt than I do.” I turned to look at him. Salty, I said. You want the water to taste salty like the sea. The squid ink was a gift to him for Valentine’s Day, with a hand-crank pasta machine. And then the jar sat, intimidating in its dark simplicity, in our refrigerator. It was the one thing from our fridge that traveled with us across the country when we moved from Atlanta to Seattle. The ink is the darkest black I’ve ever known. It’s too difficult to describe the darkness in that jar, other than to simply say it was inky. Even that is a misnomer. It was thick, thicker than I was really anticipating. I thought of the ink in a pen but this is viscous, like molasses but less sticky, …